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nowthenad · Joined: 23 Feb 2006 Posts: 6

I recently installed hot and cold outdoor taps. Instead of doing it the proper way, I used a couple of Y piece hose splitters and attached them to the brass washing machine valves where the washing machine hoses attach to the water supply. I then connected the washing machine hoses to one leg of the Y pieces and took piping from the other leg to my new outdoor taps.

It was fine at first but then the Y-piece on the hot water started to leak where it attaches to the washing machine valve. The Y-piece was difficult to tighten up because it didn't have the kind of wings that you usually see on washing machine hoses. The Y-piece looks more like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101168&ts=14632&id=15272

Anyway, I thought that it could probably do with being a little tighter so I got some waterpump pliers on it and tightened it until it stopped leaking. A couple of days later I had to do it again because it had started dripping again. About 1 month later I had to do it again but this time it didn't help and now I think it is overtight and I think the plastic nut is probably bowing underneath. I'm just guessing there.

Well, what did I do wrong, or are these splitters just too flimsy to do the job? They are certainly not as substantial as the plastic nuts on washing machine hoses.

Does anyone have any tips? I have just ordered a couple of new splitters but this time I have gone for a slightly different type. The ones I had have the rubber built in. I have now ordered ones with a separate rubber washer that look go together like the ends of washing machine hoses.

I would be grateful of any advice.

Thank you
nowthenAD

harv · Joined: 17 Jan 2006 Posts: 29 Location: Midlands

Hi,

My first guess would be to check that there are rubber sealing washers present for each connection?

It may be that one is missing - the thread does not provide the actual watertight seal, this is done by the rubber washer.

Hope this helps!

nowthenad · Joined: 23 Feb 2006 Posts: 6

The rubber in the leaking is built in to the plastic nut on the flange. It looks like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2way-hose-connector-y-piece-for-washing-machine-hoses_W0QQitemZ7584253022QQcategoryZ20714QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

nowthenad · Joined: 23 Feb 2006 Posts: 6

The rubber in the leaking Y-piece is built in to the plastic nut, on the flange of the pipe-end. It looks like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2way-hose-connector-y-piece-for-washing-machine-hoses_W0QQitemZ7584253022QQcategoryZ20714QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

nowthenAD

harv · Joined: 17 Jan 2006 Posts: 29 Location: Midlands

Hi,

Is that definitely the point at which it is leaking - are the rubber seals OK on the 2 outlet pipes?

Have you tried swapping this Y piece with the other one and seeing if the problem then moves to the cold one - it could be you have a faulty Y piece.

nowthenad · Joined: 23 Feb 2006 Posts: 6

Yes, it is definitely leaking from that point. The outlet pitpes connect to the washing machine hoses lower down. It is definitely leaking from higher up. If I remove the Y piece from the brass valve then the leaking stops.
Yes, it looks like the Y piece is now faulty. The question is: How am I to treat these things? Finger tight doesn't seem to do the job, especially seeing as there is very little to grab hold of. ....and as you rightly point out: Improving the seal on the thread (with PTFE) will not help the water seal.

harv · Joined: 17 Jan 2006 Posts: 29 Location: Midlands

We seem to be nearer to a diagnosis Smile

I think it comes back to "Tight is Tight" - I suppose a light tweak with a pair of pump pliers wouldn't hurt, but I'd be very nervous about the strength of the plastic threads.

As a side note, it may be worth checking the rubber seal for damage, and also the surface which mates with it for any irregularities. Maybe (if you have any) you could give the one of the surfaces a smear of boss white, or fernox LS.

nowthenad · Joined: 23 Feb 2006 Posts: 6

harv

I have googled on boss white and fernox LS.

It seems that fernox LS is supposed to be used outside the joint while boss white is meant to be used inside the joint. Have I understood that right. Also, I notice that there is a Boss Green that is said to be OK for potable water. Is the white one better in any way?

nowthenAD

harv · Joined: 17 Jan 2006 Posts: 29 Location: Midlands

Fernox LS-X or Water Hawk (same as Boss Green) would both be acceptable for potable water.

Water Hawk would seem to be the most suitable, although I don't think you should really need either for a joint which has a rubber washer.

I'm sure someone else will be along shortly with some different ideas!

nowthenad · Joined: 23 Feb 2006 Posts: 6

By the way, when I detached the Y-piece I felt around the end of the brass thread and it seemed to be OK.

I went on the Fernox website. Fernox seem to be producing some good stuff.