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ChrisR · Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 5:33 pm Post subject:

Optia looks like an Ideal Classic. Manual in the ether John.

I expect the HW circuit is such low resistance that it knobbles the pressure available from the pump, so the circulation downstairs just stops.
Needs a gate valve on the HW primaries to balance it.

thescruff · Moderator Joined: 03 May 2003 Posts: 4659 Location: Bath

Cheers Chris, yes it does look like the classic, but when I do an google it shows then for sale but nothing on the ideal site Confused

So you reckon the primary's to the cylinder is pinching 90% of the water when the valve is in the mid position.

Yes could well do, and that would leave little to no flow to the ground floor.

An lockshield gate valve on the cylinder return and just crack it open then Cool

Yellowman · Joined: 03 Jan 2008 Posts: 79 Location: Sussex

What Chris is saying makes sense. The problem has only been introduced since the addtion of 10mm pipework so im pretty sure he's right.

What you really need to do is put central heating only on and try balancing the rads first by turning the upstairs one down a bit.

Then introduce a gate valve on the cylinder return pipe. Once you have the Ch balanced you can turn on both HW and Ch and begin to close the gate valve on the HW return until the HW side of the system no longer draws heat away from the downstairs rads.

Ash · Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Location: Hull

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I have something to put to the plumber when he returns. Unfortunately the guy who installed the boiler did not do the work on the radiators so there is a difference of opinion as to who or what may be the cause of the problem.

thescruff · Moderator Joined: 03 May 2003 Posts: 4659 Location: Bath

The problem will be with the system not the boiler

Ash · Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Location: Hull

The plumber returned yesterday. Fitted a new diverter valve and checked connections. He is adamant that it's connected OK and that there was nothing wrong with the original installation.

I've had a go at balancing the system and this seems to have improved the situation regarding the time taken for the downstairs radiators to warm up. They are now hot in 5 - 10 minutes. Upstairs radiators are taking longer to warm up now though. Maybe I need to slightly adjust the flow to these.

There is a valve on the hot water cylinder return valve which I have closed slightly from its original position. I noticed this morning that the system is now much noisier. Especially the pipes in the airing cupboard where the hot water cylinder, pump, diverter valve are located. The noise appears to occur when the pump is working. Sounds much like a seashell type sound in the pipes. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Yellowman · Joined: 03 Jan 2008 Posts: 79 Location: Sussex

Does this sound go when open the gate valve back up on the cylinder return pipe? If may be that the water is making a rushing sound as when the valve is closed a bit it restrict the flow thorugh the coil within the cylinder.

Ash · Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Location: Hull

I closed the valve on the hot water return pipe very slightly, as suggested, in order to prevent the loss of heat in the downstairs radiators when the hot water is run. I will open the valve up again and see what happens. Although the noise is annoying can I assume that no damage is being caused to the system.

Thanks.

thescruff · Moderator Joined: 03 May 2003 Posts: 4659 Location: Bath

When the noise is going on, check the MV is open to the heating, and manually open it if it isn't

Ash · Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Location: Hull

By MV do you mean the gate valve on the hot water cylinder return pipe or the diverter valve. If it's the diverter, how do I do this. I thought the diverter worked automatically.

Thanks.

thescruff · Moderator Joined: 03 May 2003 Posts: 4659 Location: Bath